Retrotrip Historic Rally Tripmeters

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www.brantz.co.uk

 

 

The Brantz Retrotrip Classique (BR9C) & The Brantz Retrotrip Mulsanne (BR9M)

                                         

The Retrotrip 2 has been designed for approval for use on many historic or retrospective rallies to fill the vacuum left by a shortage of mechanical tripmeters. Those competitors who could source a genuine period tripmeter with the correct functions and with sufficient spare parts to get it calibrated were felt to have an unfair advantage. The Retrotrip has the functions and instant ‘one in a thousand’ calibration accuracy for any wheel changes etc, plus can be seen to be ‘fiddle proof’ because of the old style electro-mechanical clicking digits, hence its widespread approval.

Essential Extras:

Recommended Extras :

Optional Extras:


 

Right Track Enterprises Ltd

www.brantz.co.uk

 

 

The Brantz RetroTrip 3 Classique (BR10C)

RETROTRIP 3 Classique. This Retrotrip is a simple evolution of the ever-popular Retrotrip2 and has all the same features of accurate one-in-a-thousand pushdigit calibration and clicking electromechanical readouts which has made the Retrotrip2 eligible for historic type rallies throughout the world. Where the Retrotrip3 differs is that it contains two completely separate and independent tripmeters in the same box. One tripmeter drives the normal two counters on the left hand side of the box. A switch allows one of these two counters to be disconnected to hold a reading for 'whatever' purpose. The Calibration switches and the On-Off switch on the left control this tripmeter with counters labelled as I (for intermediate distances, and T for total distances. A second tripmeter with its' own calibration switches drives a third readout marked as V on the upper row on the right. This tripmeter can also be switched On or Off. The whole istrument can be switched on or off by the horizontal power switch bottom right. A design feature of the BR10C is that it can be modified internally to suit various requirements. To open up the instrument, disconnect totally from the power source and remove the top lighting cowl. Remove the four corner screws on the face of the instument. The counters, rocker switches and counter output socket are connected to the control board via spring loaded connectors. Make changes only if you are competent in electrical matters or damage could result. The position of each counter can be changed to suit your own taste. The counter output socket can be used to drive an external counter running in parallel with any of the three internal counters by selecting which terminals it is connected up to. One or more of the internal counters can be removed from the instrument to comply with various rally organisers rules. Note that both tripmeters are fed from the same single sensor fitted to either the speedometer cable or road wheel. All counters can be zeroed independently.
Remember that much of the meter's technology is over fifty years old, and even such simple functions as zeroing the readouts can require a certain amount of dexterity! Calibration (Cal'TI') for the two distance counters on the left is as normal and should be done accurately. Zero the counters and set the calibration 'TI' digits to 100 and drive a measured kilometre (or mile if working in miles and miles per hour). Enter this figure onto the calibration 'TI' pushdigits. A more accurate figure can be obtained by driving a measured two kilometres and dividing the readouts by two. The tripmeter will now indicate hundredths of a kilometre or mile depending on the distance travelled. An alternative way of calibrating Cal'TI' if the organisers have given you an accurate route of say 3.26 km is to enter 326 onto the Cal'TI' switches, zero the TI readouts and drive the known distance. The figure which has accumulated on either of the 'TI' readouts is the figure to enter onto the Cal'TI' calibration switches. If you have a second tripmeter (and the BR10C has two independent tripmeters) you can achieve an indication of AVERAGE SPEED, by calibrating the second tripmeter to a different figure as derived from the Bath Formula supplied with each BR10C (See below). The BR10C is wired as follows: The black cable is the power feed and contains a brown wire which is connected to +12volts. The Green/yellow is connected to the -12volts. Whichever of these two wire is the 'live' it should be fitted with a fuse of not more than 2 amps. Wiring must be taken directly from the vehicle's battery terminals and not from the chassis or existing vehicle wiring. Cars which have a 6 volt or 12 volt dynamo system (ie not a negatively earthed alternator type charger) must use the Brantz Power Conditioner. The grey cable connects to the sensor as indicated on the sheet supplied with the tripmeter. If using the normal universal speedometer cable sensor then Brown goes to brown, Blue goes to blue, and Green/Yellow goes to green. Wheel sensors will often work with the Retrotrips, but their use is not recommended. Assemble and test your Retrotrip on the bench with a spare battery BEFORE fitting to the car so that you know everything is OK prior to installation.

Testing a RetroTrip on the workshop bench. DEALER INFORMATION. (NOT?) FOR RELEASE TO CUSTOMER. May 2000. Connect the power cable (black sheath) to a 12 volt battery, brown to +12 volts, green/yellow to -12 volts. Note that testing can not be done reliably when connected to a battery charger, as the current is not smoothed. If the Retrotrip has customer-installed connectors, especially crimp types, push & pull these gently, then firmly, to check tightness.
Solder them in place wherever possible.
Test (1) Switch on the Retrotrip. Observe the top lights go on. Switch off.
Test (2) (Optional test for dealers with Brantz test equipment. Others go straight to test 3) Put the Retrotrip calibration switches (some may be pen-push types) to 555 / 555. Connect the grey cable to a Brantz 'Rolling Road Tester' taking care to connect the right colours. Zero the three readouts. Switch on the Retrotrip. Note the two counters click over together. Change the calibration figures (there is a limit as to how fast the counters can go, so the calibration figure cannot be too low. Switch off the Retrotrip. Remove the 'Rolling Road Tester'.
Test (3) Connect a sensor to the grey cable carefully observing the colour codes (see the sensor information sheet). Select a low
calibration figure. Switch on the Retrotrip. Rotate the sensor mechanism (or for a wheel sensor touch a steel object onto the tip of the sensor many times). See the counters click over. The BR2(a) wheel sensor will only work with RetroTrips built after July 2004.
SELF TEST FACILITY FOR MORE RECENT MODELS of RETRO (Aug 2001): Connect the Retrotrip to a charged battery supply (sensor is not needed). Put the rotary calibration switches to 000 / 000. Turn on the power. In less than eight seconds (important) of turning the power on, change all the calibration switches to 888 / 888. After a few seconds the counters will start to self-step themselves in groups of eight for as long as the power remains connected. This enables the simulation of great distances on the bench. If all the above functions are correct then any problem is likely to be with the car and/or the installation. See the trouble-shooting tips on the sensor sheet and MOST IMPORTANTLY - try the meter on another car. Derive power directly from the battery TERMINALS not the chassis or fuse panel. This is the single most important installation recommendation, and it is the one most resisted by customers as it is frequently inconvenient. Low battery voltage at the trip will cause trouble (see recommended power conditioner below). Popular problems are: Reversed power, loose crimp type connectors, even more loose connectors, battery under voltage, poor quality wiring with still more loose connectors, and earthing derived from chassis instead of battery, radio interference from HT sparkplugs / pumps / horn / wipers / dynamo / alternator etc. See the sensor sheet for a very simple interference test.
N.B. PREVENT VIBRATION! - Excessive vibration can cause one counter to disagree with the other as can poor power supplies. Remember that the counter technology of the Retrotrip is necessarily over fifty years old and today's expectation of perfect performance is a little harder to achieve. Older cars with 6 volt electrics or poorly performing or less reliably performing 12 volts charger systems should use a BRANTZ POWER CONDITIONER which will always produce a correct voltage source for the Retrotrip. If any of the above recommendations have been followed, please make a list of them with your observations, and have that list to hand before calling a technical helpline. Detailed operating and installation information is available on www.brantz.co.uk or www.retrotrip.net
CALIBRATING your second tripmeter in the BR10C according to the 'BATH FORMULA' which follows: You have a second tripmeter (the RETRO 3 has two independent tripmeters) so you can achieve an indication of AVERAGE SPEED, by calibrating the second tripmeter to a different figure so that the number indicated on that tripmeter numerically equals the SECONDS ELAPSED. If it doesn't match, drive faster or slower until it does match. At the start of the timed section -start a stopwatch and travel at the speed which makes the second tripmeter give the same number as the seconds on the stopwatch. i.e. at 34 seconds the tripmeter reads 000.34, and at one minute and 12 seconds, the trip reads 000.72. Certain Brantz rally clocks (model BR32) contain a simple 'seconds counter' which goes 0-9 on all digits to facilitate the above comparison so at 1minute 12 seconds the Brantz rally clock can show 0072 seconds. The calibration figure for the second tripmeter (Cal'V') is Cal'TI' (see top calibration proceedure) multiplied by the speed which the event organisers wish you to average, divided by 36. For example, if your main distance tripmeter calibration figure is 678 and the desired average is 41.9 KPH, the the second calibration figure Cal'V' is 789. ie Bath formula to get the Cal'V' calibration is the organiser's target average speed x Cal'TI' / 36 [this latter part of the formula is a constant figure, perhaps something like 10.3 for example, so the cal'V' figure for 40kph or 40mph in this example would be 40x10.3 which is the 'V' calibration figure of 412]. N.B. the 'Bath Formula' is a copyright work and may not be replicated without authority. If you are experiencing difficulties with your Retrotrip installation: In order that we can help you, please complete the following tests and indicate every item as 'good' or explain the observation if not good. Fax back to us on 44 (England) 1943 880499 and we will respond. Test 1) Check to see if battery is 12volt or 6volt. If 12 volt go to test 2. If 6 volt test the Retrotrip from a temporary 12 volt battery connected only to the Retrotrip.
Observation:
Test 2) Check to see that Power is derived directly from the TWO battery terminals not fuse panel etc or chassis.
Indicate 'Good' or observation:
Test 3) If the Retrotrip has customer-installed connectors, especially crimp types, push & pull these gently, then firmly, to check tightness. Solder them in place wherever possible or use screw-type connectors. Indicate 'Good' if not crimp type or observation:
Test 4) Test for interference. This is particularly common when home-made HT sparkplug leads have been used, but can come from damaged alternators or fuel pumps/horn/wipers etc. If interference is present it is always too powerful to defend against and should be fixed at source by suppressors or new silicon leads etc. Take a portable radio, select the AM band (important) and tune into a quiet spot between stations. Turn up the volume and start the vehicle. Listen for loud clicks. That's
interference. Compare the vehicle with a normal road car as a guide to what is acceptable. Try other vehicle accessories to locate intermittent sources of trouble. Indicate 'Good' or observation:
Test 5) SELF TEST FACILITY FOR MORE RECENT MODELS (May 1999 onwards): Connect the Retrotrip to a charged battery supply (sensor is not needed). Put the rotary calibration switches to 000. Turn on the power. Within eight seconds of turning the power on (Important / less than 8 seconds is not a very long time!!!), change all the calibration switches to 888. After a few seconds the counters will start to self-step themselves in groups of eight for as long as the power remains connected. This enables the simulation of great distances on the bench. If all the above functions are correct then any problem is likely to be with the car and/or the installation. Indicate 'Good' or observation:
Test 6) If test 5 fails, connect the Retrotrip power wires directly to a spare 12volt battery which is not connected to your car. Repeat test 5. Indicate 'Good' on spare or observation:
Test 7) Connect a sensor to the grey cable carefully observing the colour codes (see the sensor information sheet). Select calibration figure(s) 009. Switch on the Retrotrip. Rotate the sensor mechanism (or for a wheel sensor touch a steel object onto the tip of the sensor many times). See the counters click over. Indicate
'Good' or observation:
Test 8)If all the above tests are 'Good' Try the meter on another car. Indicate 'Good' on the other car, or observation:
Note that testing can not be done reliably when connected to a battery charger, as the current is not smoothed.

The RetroTrip 2 (discontinued)

 

 

 

The RetroTrip 3 (discontinued)


RETROTRIP 3. The Retrotrip3 is a simple evolution of the ever-popular Retrotrip2 and has all the same features of accurate one-in-
a-thousand pushdigit calibration and clicking electromechanical readouts which has made the Retrotrip2 eligible for historic type rallies
throughout the world. Where the Retrotrip3 differs is that it contains two completely separate and independent tripmeters in the same
box. One tripmeter drives the normal two counters on the top row of the box. A switch allows one of these two counters to be
disconnected to hold a reading for 'whatever' purpose. A second tripmeter with its' own calibration switches drives a third readout on
the lower row. Both tripmeters are fed from the same single sensor fitted to either the speedometer cable or road wheel. All counters
can be zeroed independently. Either of the tripmeters can be prevented from counting by changing its calibration figure to 000.
Remember that much of the meter's technology is over fifty years old, and even such simple functions as zeroing the readouts can
require a certain amount of dexterity! Calibration 1 (C1) for the top two distance counters is as normal and should be done accurately.
Zero the counters and set the calibration 1 digits to 100 and drive a measured kilometre (or mile if working in miles and miles per hour).
Enter this figure onto the calibration 1 pushdigits. A more accurate figure can be obtained by driving a measured two kilometres and
dividing the readouts by two. The tripmeter will now indicate hundredths of a kilometre or mile depending on the distance travelled.
If you have a second tripmeter (and the Retrotrip3 has two independent tripmeters) you can achieve an indication of AVERAGE
SPEED, by calibrating the second tripmeter to a different figure as derived from the Bath Formula supplied with each Retrotrip3
(See below). The Retrotrip3 is wired as follows: The black cable is the power feed and contains a brown wire which is connected
to +12volts. The Green/yellow is connected to the -12volts. Whichever of these two wire is the 'live' it should be fitted with a fuse of
not more than 2 amps. Wiring must be taken directly from the vehicle's battery terminals and not from the chassis or existing vehicle
wiring. Cars which have a 6 volt or 12 volt dynamo system (ie not a negatively earthed alternator type charger) must use the Brantz
Power Conditioner. The grey cable connects to the sensor as indicated on the sheet supplied with the tripmeter. If using the normal
universal speedometer cable sensor then Brown goes to brown, Blue goes to blue, and Green/Yellow goes to green. Wheel sensors
will often work with the Retotrips, but their use is not recommended. Assemble and test your Retrotrip on the bench with a spare
battery BEFORE fitting to the car so that you know everything is OK prior to installation. The Retrotrip3 was hand crafted by a
member of the Guild of Master Craftsmen. Testing a RetroTrip on the workshop bench. DEALER INFORMATION. (NOT?) FOR
RELEASE TO CUSTOMER. May 2000. Connect the power cable (black sheath) to a 12 volt battery, brown to +12 volts,
green/yellow to -12 volts. Note that testing can not be done reliably when connected to a battery charger, as the current is not smoothed.
If the Retrotrip has customer-installed connectors, especially crimp types, push & pull these gently, then firmly, to check tightness.
Solder them in place wherever possible. Test (1) Switch on the Retrotrip. Observe the top lights go on. Switch off. Test (2) (Optional
test for dealers with Brantz test equipment. Others go straight to test 3) Put the Retrotrip calibration switches (some may be pen-push
types) to 555 / 555. Connect the grey cable to a Brantz 'Rolling Road Tester' taking care to connect the right colours. Zero the three
readouts. Switch on the Retrotrip. Note the two counters click over together. Change the calibration figures (there is a limit as to how
fast the counters can go, so the calibration figure cannot be too low. Switch off the Retrotrip. Remove the 'Rolling Road Tester'.
Test (3) Connect a sensor to the grey cable carefully observing the colour codes (see the sensor information sheet). Select a low
calibration figure. Switch on the Retrotrip. Rotate the sensor mechanism (or for a wheel sensor touch a steel object onto the tip of the
sensor many times). See the counters click over. The BR2(a) wheel sensor will only work with RetroTrips built after July 2004.
SELF TEST FACILITY FOR MORE RECENT MODELS of RETRO3 (Aug 2001): Connect the Retrotrip to a charged battery
supply (sensor is not needed). Put the rotary calibration switches to 000 / 000. Turn on the power. Note the readouts take half a step.
Within eight seconds of turning the power on, change all the calibration switches to 888 / 888. After a few seconds the counters will
start to self-step themselves in groups of eight for as long as the power remains connected. This enables the simulation of great
distances on the bench. If all the above functions are correct then any problem is likely to be with the car and/or the installation. See
the trouble-shooting tips on the sensor sheet and MOST IMPORTANTLY - try the meter on another car. Derive power directly
from the battery TERMINALS not the chassis or fuse panel. This is the single most important installation recommendation, and it is
the one most resisted by customers as it is frequently inconvenient. Low battery voltage at the trip will cause trouble (see
recommended power conditioner below). Popular problems are: Reversed power, loose crimp type connectors, even more loose
connectors, battery under voltage, poor quality wiring with still more loose connectors, and earthing derived from chassis instead of
battery, radio interference from HT/pumps/horn/wipers/dynamo/ alternator etc. See sensor sheet for a very simple interference test.
N.B. PREVENT VIBRATION! - Excessive vibration can cause one counter to disagree with the other as can poor power supplies.
Remember that the counter technology of the Retrotrip is necessarily over fifty years old and today's expectation of perfect
performance is a little harder to achieve. Older cars with 6 volt electrics or poorly performing or less reliably performing 12 volts
charger systems should use a BRANTZ POWER CONDITIONER which will always produce a correct voltage source for the
Retrotrip. If any of the above recommendations have been followed, please make a list of them with your observations, and have that
list to hand before calling a technical helpline. Detailed operating and installation information is available on www.brantz.co.uk
CALIBRATING your second tripmeter in the RETRO 3 according to the 'BATH FORMULA' which follows: You have a second
tripmeter (the RETRO 3 has two independent tripmeters) so you can achieve an indication of AVERAGE SPEED, by calibrating the
second tripmeter to a different figure so that the number indicated on that tripmeter numerically equals the SECONDS ELAPSED.
If it doesn't match, drive faster or slower until it does match. At the start of the timed section -start a stopwatch and travel at the
speed which makes the second tripmeter give the same number as the seconds on the stopwatch. i.e. at 34 seconds the tripmeter
reads 000.34, and at one minute and 12 seconds, the trip reads 000.72. Certain Brantz rally clocks contain a simple 'seconds
counter' which goes 0-9 on all digits to facilitate the above comparison so at 1minute 12 seconds the Brantz rally clock can show
0072 seconds. The calibration figure for the second tripmeter (C2) is Cl (see top calibration proceedure) multiplied by the speed
which the event organisers wish you to average, divided by 36. For example, if your main distance tripmeter calibration figure is 678
and the desired average is 41.9 KPH, the the second calibration figure is 789. (ie Bath formula calibration is average speed x C1 / 36).
N.B. the 'Bath Formula' is a copyright work and may not be replicated without authority. If you are experiencing difficulties with your
Retrotrip installation: In order that we can help you, please complete the following tests and indicate every item as 'good' or explain
the observation if not good. Fax back to us on 44 (England) 1943 880499 and we will respond. Test 1) Check to see if battery is
12volt or 6volt. If 12 volt go to test 2. If 6 volt test the Retrotrip from a temporary 12 volt battery connected only to the Retrotrip.
Observation: Test 2) Check to see that Power is derived directly from the TWO battery terminals not fuse panel etc or chassis.
Indicate 'Good' or observation: Test 3) If the Retrotrip has customer-installed connectors, especially crimp types, push & pull these
gently, then firmly, to check tightness. Solder them in place wherever possible or use screw-type connectors. Indicate 'Good' if not
crimp type or observation: Test 4) Test for interference. This is particularly common when home-made HT sparkplug leads have been
used, but can come from damaged alternators or fuel pumps/horn/wipers etc. If interference is present it is always too powerful to
defend against and should be fixed at source by suppressors or new silicon leads etc. Take a portable radio, select the AM band
(important) and tune into a quiet spot between stations. Turn up the volume and start the vehicle. Listen for loud clicks. That's
interference. Compare the vehicle with a normal road car as a guide to what is acceptable. Try other vehicle accessories to locate
intermittent sources of trouble. Indicate 'Good' or observation: Test 5) SELF TEST FACILITY FOR MORE RECENT MODELS
(May 1999 onwards): Connect the Retrotrip to a charged battery supply (sensor is not needed). Put the rotary calibration switches
to 000. Turn on the power. Note the readouts may take half a step. Within eight seconds of turning the power on (Important / less
than 8 seconds is not a very long time!!!), change all the calibration switches to 888. After a few seconds the counters will start to
self-step themselves in groups of eight for as long as the power remains connected. This enables the simulation of great distances on
the bench. If all the above functions are correct then any problem is likely to be with the car and/or the installation. Indicate 'Good'
or observation: Test 6) If test 5 fails, connect the Retrotrip power wires directly to a spare 12volt battery which is not connected to
your car. Repeat test 5. Indicate 'Good' on spare or observation: Test 7) Connect a sensor to the grey cable carefully observing the
colour codes (see the sensor information sheet). Select calibration figure(s) 009. Switch on the Retrotrip. Rotate the sensor
mechanism (or for a wheel sensor touch a steel object onto the tip of the sensor many times). See the counters click over. Indicate
'Good' or observation: Test 8)If all the above tests are 'Good' Try the meter on another car. Indicate 'Good' on the other car, or
observation: Note that testing can not be done reliably when connected to a battery charger, as the current is not smoothed.